Winter Vegetables Gratin with Cranberries and Chestnuts

From In the Hands of a Chef: Cooking with Jody Adams by Jody Adams and Ken Rivard (New York: William Morrow).

MAKES 8 TO 10 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A 3-quart baking dish is essential for this recipe. You need at least 1 1/2 inches of space between the top of the vegetables and the rim of the dish. This is to accommodate the 4 1/2 cups of liquid that are added after the gratin is constructed, as well as the layer of plastic wrap and foil that need to be pressed down on top of the gratin.

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 large leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit.

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 Bosc pears, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices

3 large potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/8 inch thick

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage

1 celery root (about 1 pound), peeled and sliced 1/8-inch-thick

2 cups grated Gruyere cheese (6 to 8 ounces)

1 1/2 cups cooked and peeled chestnuts, substitute 1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

1 fennel bulb, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut lengthwise in half, cored, and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick

1 pound winter squash (butternut, buttercup, or Hubbard), peeled and sliced 1/8 inch thick

1 cup dried cranberries, soaked in 1/4 cup warm water

2 1/2 cups milk

2 cups cream

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. Heat a large nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the butter. When it has melted, add the leaks and cook until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and transfer to a plate.

3. Wipe the pan clean with a paper towel, then heat 2 more tablespoons butter over medium heat. As soon as it melts add the pears and sauté until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

4. Rub the bottom and sides of a 3-quart baking dish with the final tablespoon of butter. Layer half the potatoes in the bottom of the dish. Season with salt, pepper, and a sprinkle of the sage. As you add each subsequent layer, season it the same way. Use all the leeks for the next layer, followed by all of the celery root. Top with 1 cup of the cheese. Sprinkle with the chestnuts, then use the fennel, squash, cranberries, and pears for the subsequent layers. Finish with the remaining potatoes, then follow it with a layer of aluminum foil, tucking the foil around the edges so it both sits on the gratin and is fastened snugly to the dish. The plastic warp will prevent the potatoes from drying out.

5. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove the dish from the oven. Carefully peel back a corner of the foil and plastic wrap and pour the cream over the top of the gratin, the replace the plastic wrap and foil. Bake for 30 minutes longer.

6. Remove the foil and plastic wrap. The tip of a sharp knife should easily penetrate the gratin without any resistance; if the vegetables are still somewhat firm, cook for another 15 minutes and test with a knife again. Sprinkle the gratin with the remaining 1 cup cheese and bake for an additional 15 minutes, or until the cheese has formed a golden crust.

7. Allow the gratin to cool for 10 minutes before serving.   

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