Grilled Smoked Chicken with Poppy Seeds and Pancetta

From In the Hands of a Chef: Cooking with Jody Adams by Jody Adams and Ken Rivard (New York: William Morrow).

Makes 4 entrée servings

2 cups of wood chips, soaked in water for 30 minutes

One 3 ½ -to-4-pound chicken
4 thin slices pancetta
Grated zest of 3 lemons (reserve lemons)
¼ cup poppy seeds
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, crushed
2 tablespoons honey
½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Using a sturdy knife or cleaver, chop the wing tips off the chicken. Using your fingers, separate the skin from the breasts, forming a pocket over each breast. Slip 2 slices of pancetta into each pocket, then press the skin back down to hold the pancetta in place.

2. Drain the wood chips and put them into a small foil pan. Prepare a medium fire in a grill; allow the grill to heat with the top closed and the pan of chips directly over the flames or coals until the entire grate is hot and the chips are smoking well, at least 15 minutes. Then adjust the heat source so there is space in the center of the grate that is not directly above the coals or flames, large enough to hold the chicken with plenty of room to spare. Turn off the middle burner if using a gas grill, or push the coals to the sides of a charcoal grill. The chicken should cook by indirect heat – it should not grill. Only the pan of wood chips should be over the direct heat.

3. Meanwhile, mix the lemon zest with the poppy seeds, garlic, fennel seeds, honey, parsley, rosemary, and oil to form a paste. Season the chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Smear the paste evening over the exterior of the chicken. Cut 2 of the zested lemons into quarters (save the remaining lemon for another use). Place as many of the lemon quarters inside the cavity as will fit comfortably (don’t squish them). Tie the legs together with butchers twine and truss the chicken so the cavity is closed.

4. Place the chicken breast side up on the grill. Close the grill and roast for 1 ½ to 2 hours. An instant-read digital thermometer should read 165 degrees when inserted into the thickest part of the thigh. This will give you a moist juicy chicken. If you prefer a little more well done, wait until the thermometer reads 170 degrees. When the thigh is pricked near where it joins the body, the juices should run clear. Remove and let the chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving.

5. Remove the lemon quarters from the cavity (I know – they’re a mess) and set aside. Carve the chicken and arrange on a platter. Squeeze the lemon quarters over the chicken, or offer them on the side. Serve immediately.

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