Oregon Pinot Camp 2008

For many people, Oregon is synonymous with Nike, buckets of rain all year long, the best computer game of all time (i.e., the 1980’s cult classic Oregon Trails) and internationally syndicated sex columnist Dan Savage.  For me, Oregon means Pinot Noir.  For many years I have rather desperately wanted to attend Oregon Pinot Camp.  Founded in 2000, OPC is an annual event hosted by 50 wineries to help promote one of the state’s most popular grapes to a wider, national audience. Wine buyers from restaurants and retail shops nationwide are invited for four days of tastings, talks, winery visits and more.  When I received an invitation in the mail from Elk Cove Winery I was thrilled to start planning my trip and begin thinking about the interesting Pinot Noirs that I might be able to feature on the Rialto list. 

The trip began with welcome dinners, tastings and vineyard visits. During the first weeks of June, Oregon erupts  with lush, vibrant colors—dark green vines, cerulean blue skies you could write poetry about, lush red strawberries, and a mulitude of purple hues shooting out of vases and gardens. I was thrilled to be sipping wines in such places.  Oregon is really worth a visit. 

Here you’ll find photos and thoughts on some of the great wines I tasted. Look out for some of these on the Rialto list in the coming weeks and months.

At the Oregon Chardonnay Alliance tasting, I tried the 2000 Argyle Blanc de Blanc . It is an amazing sparkling wine that currently does not find its way into Massachusetts, but that is not to say I will not try to get it here.  The bubbles were fine and persistent with a great slate finish and notes of lemon meringue.

To me, the 2005 Pinot Noir Belle Pente “Reserve” Yamhill-Carlton, Oregon represents everything great Pinot Noir can be.  There is a subtle length to it with a good firm acidity that keeps the wine alive for a very long time on the tongue.  Its great complexity unfolds as the wine opens up in the glass.  Thankfully there are two cases available to Massachusetts-- I quickly snatched them up. Look for this wine on the list in the Fall.

I have been to many tastings in my life and many of them have a lot of wines, but the Ponzi Wine Bar Welcome Tasting might be one of the best tastings I have ever been to.  All 50 wineries offered a wide assortment of wines to try, from Archery Summit’s Renegade Ridge Pinot Noir to WillaKenzie Estate’s Pinot Meunier.  It was extremely cool to have the opportunity to compare neighbors, their styles and choices.  For me, the best thing about the Ponzi welcome was the chance to meet some of the people behind many of the wines that I had been a fan of for years. 

I was even able to test my palate with the 2005 Z’ivo Wines “Quartet.”  The wine is a blend of four grapes, and it was the first time the winery had shown the wine.  They were asking all the sommeliers to guess what four grapes were in the wine.  I always feel like the harder you think about the wine, the more likely you are to over think it and second-guess yourself.  I jumped right in, determined not to think to hard.  I felt the wine had an oiliness that suggested Pinot Blanc, as well as a tropical thing that whispered Chardonnay.  Right on both counts. Two more grapes to go. The acidity could only have come from Sauvignon Blanc.  Ok. One more. Oregon winemakers are always trying new grapes to see what might work and I had heard rumors of experimenting with Melon, the grape behind Muscadet.  There was a certain minerality that resonated in the mouth, so what the heck I went for it.  I don’t know who was more surprised the winemaker or myself, but I had guessed correct and my prize was a bottle of the wine.  One lucky guess is sometimes all it takes.

Elk Cove was one of the founding Pinot Camp wineries and every year they have a golf contest.  My good spirit (if not my stellar golf skills) was recognized with a prize for “Miss Congeniality.”  My prize: 2007 Chardonnay Chehalem “Inox.” A delicious un-oaked Chardonnay that was maybe the best American imitation of Chablis I have ever had.  The wine had great balance with lots of citrus peel and a lingering finish of stones from fresh spring water.  The wines of Elk Cove are always tasty and their Pinot Blanc has long been my favorite example of the grape; in fact it was one of the first wines I add to the Rialto list when I came on. 

Dinner at Elk Cove was remarkable. We ate “Tri-Tip Bison” with an assortment of fresh vegetables and a 2000 Elk Cove “Roosevelt” Pinot Noir.  The bison was smokey with a very gamey finish and when paired with the “cru” pinot noir the dish brightened up and the pinot was given more depth.  A nice choice and great way to showcase an older wine. The red, red strawberries for dessert took my breath away. In fact, I ate so many out-of-this world Oregon berries on the trip that by the time I headed back to Boston my fingers were dyed red.

At Domaine Drouhin Oregon, we had a great discussion about soil types.  Volcanic soil at Dundee can give the wine a smokey, chalky note while the sedimentary soils of Salem impart a slightly higher acidity and brighter fruit tone to the wines.  I tasted the difference when I sipped the 2006 Lange “Estate” Pinot Noir versus 2006 Beaux Freres “Ribbon Ridge” Pinot Noir.

Dinner at Domaine Serene was classy and elegant. I have been a fan of the 2006 Pinot Noir St. Innocent “Temperance Hill Vineyard” Willamette Valley, Oregon for many years. At Rialto I always recommend it paired with Jody’s classic Long Island Duck dish.  Sipping it at Pinot Camp felt like coming home to an old friend. 

The outdoor salmon bake and s’more roast are Oregon Pinot Camp traditions.  Our hosts at Stoller Vineyards had built a huge bonfire and I roasted s’more after s’more, wincing as I extended my skewer into the fire. I don’t know if I would pair melting chocolate and marshmallows smooshed between warm graham crackers with any particular Pinot Noir but I loved them nonetheless.

At the biodyanamic Maysara Winery, owners Moe and Flora Momtazi spray rosemary tea on their vines to repel insects. 

The two big conversations that kept coming up at Pinot Camp had to do with soil quality and sustainability. Oregon winemakers and growers have always been keenly aware of nurturing a viable, sustainable industry.  At Maysara, a certified Bio-dynamic winery, I was able to really see these practices in action.  Walking thought the vineyards it clear that there was a vibrant ecosystem around the grapes, particularly around the rather large compost pile.

St. Innocent’s owner and winemaker , Mark Vlossek, gave me a special bottle of sparkling wine for my birthday.  The wine is amazing, however, with only 44 cases produced annually, the odds are slim that I’ll get even a few bottles into the restaurant. But I’m determined to see what I can do.

It was a real treat to help Brian O’Donell of Bell Pente decide the lot blends for his two Pinot Gris. Above you can see a different Pinot Gris lot in each glass. 

One of the best things about my job is that I get paid to continually learn and try things.  Pinot Camp was an amazing experience that taught me so much about so many great wineries. If you’d like to hear more about my travels, drop the restaurant and I’d be happy to tell you more.

Here is a list of the wines we currently have on the menu from Oregon:

Whites

’05 Chardonnay Belle Pente Belle Pente Vineyard Willamette Valley, Oregon

’02 Pinot Blanc Willakenzie Willamette Valley, Oregon

’06 Pinot Blanc Elk Cove Vineyards Willamette Valley, Oregon 

Reds

’04 Cabernet Blend A to Z Night & Day Oregon 

’03 Pinot Noir August Cellars Willamette Valley, Oregon

’06 Pinot Noir Domaine Drouhin Willamette Valley, Oregon

’06 Pinot Noir Lemelson Thea’s Selection Willamette Valley, Oregon

’06 Pinot Noir Lemelson Stermer Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton District, Oregon

’06 Pinot Noir St. Innocent Temperance Hill Vineyard Willamette Valley, Oregon

’06 Pinot Noir St. Innocent Shea Vineyard Willamette Valley, Oregon

’05 Pinot Noir Belle Pente Belle Pente Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton District, Oregon

And coming soon exclusively to the Rialto Wine List:

’05 Pinot Noir Lemelson Chestnut Hill Vineyard Willamette Valley, Oregon

’06 Riesling Lemelson Willamette Valley, Oregon